RODS
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GO TO RODS PAGE
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How can I customize my curtain rods?
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After selecting a curtain rod from the rods page,
you'll be able to further define your specifications:
Rod Type
All curtain rods can be made into one of the following rod types:
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straight window curtain rods
Standard straight rod.
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corner window curtain rods
Rod with two straight sections, spans a corner. Custom fabricated to meet your exact angle needed. (You don't have to calculate the actual degrees, see measuring help.)
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bay window curtain rods
Rod for a bay window with three sides, spans two corners. Custom fabricated to meet the exact angles of your bay window. (You don't have to calculate the actual degrees, see measuring help.)
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bow window curtain rods
***Please Contact Us***
Curved rod, mounted horizontally for rounded bays, etc.. *Must be part of circle (perfectly round). See "How To Measure" for details. Please contact us for current availability and pricing.
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arch window curtain rods
***Please Contact Us***
Curved rod, vertically mounted for arch windows. *Must be part of circle (perfectly round). See "How To Measure" for details. Please contact us for current availability.
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Size
You'll be able to specify all dimensions of your walls down to 1/8th of an inch.
Projection
You'll be able to specify the exact projection for the curtain rod.
Rod End Type
You'll be able to specify the
as either straight (for use with finials, escutcheons, etc.) or having returns.
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About Returns
While curtain rods typically have finials at each end, they can be fashioned to
"return" to the wall. This may be desirable if there is not enough room
for finials, or if the specific mounting requires it. In some cases returns
may appeal for solely aesthetic reasons.
If you choose returns for your curtain rod, you will need to use two post
brackets for the ends, in place of the standard brackets typically used. Be sure
to specify the Rod Size To Fit for the post brackets as the actual size of your curtain rod.
(Ex: 3/4" rod would use post brackets made to fit 3/4" rod size.) For all brackets to
be used with a curtain rod with returns, be sure to specify the same projection as was assigned
to the rod.
Projection is the distance between the wall and the rod.
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Use Of Post Bracket With Return
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Details for a Straight Rod with Returns:
Returns for specific rod types:
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Straight Rod
Returns on straight rods are fabricated at 90° from the rod.
As seen from above:
Corner Rod
Returns on corner rods are fabricated at 90° from each end of the rod.
As seen from above:
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Bay Rod
Returns on bay rods are fabricated at 90° from each end of the rod.
As seen from above:
Bow Rod
Returns on bow rods are fabricated at 90° from each end of the rod.
As seen from above:
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BRACKETS
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GO TO BRACKETS PAGE
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How can I customize my curtain brackets?
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After selecting a bracket from the brackets page, you'll be able to further
define your specifications:
Cup Style
When applicable, you'll be able to specify one of the following cup styles:
Cup Size
When applicable, you'll be able to specify the exact size for each cup in the bracket.
Projection
When applicable, you'll be able to specify the exact projection for each cup in the bracket,
or for the post in the post bracket.
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Measuring Tips for Brackets
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Center Single, Standard Single
These are the brackets typically used for a one rod setup. When ordering, select the "rod
size to fit" as the diameter of the rod these brackets will support. Select the projection
as the desired distance between the wall and the rod. When using these
brackets as center supports for rods having returns, be sure to specify the same projection
as you specified when ordering your rod and post brackets.
Standard brackets typically provide more support, but center brackets can be used for
mounting positions with little vertical space, such as above a window frame.
Center Double, Standard Double
These brackets follow all the same rules as their single counterparts, with the addition of
another cup. Typically, the inner rod is a smaller diameter than the outer rod. The projection
of the two are usually a few inches apart. Ex: Cup 1: Rod size = 3/4", Projection = 2 1/2",
Cup 2: Rod size = 1 1/4", Projection = 4 1/2". Be sure to leave room between the two rods for
all rings and fabrics.
Escutcheon
Escutcheon brackets are used for rods that will be mounted between two surfaces facing one
another, such as inside the frame of a recessed window, or in the case of a shower curtain.
Typically, only straight rods use escutcheons.
Please Note:
The escutcheon backplates are 3/16" thick. If using an escutcheon on each end of a straight rod,
be sure to subtract 1/2" from the overall length of the rod
to allow room for the brackets themselves and ease of installation.
If you are using the escutcheon on only one end of the rod, then simply subtract 1/4" from the length
of the rod. A general rule is to err on making your rod a bit too short versus too long, so as to not inhibit
installation. Also see measuring help for your rod type (straight, corner, bay) if using escutcheon brackets.
Post
Post brackets are used for curtain rods with returns on the ends. The projection
of the post bracket should be the same as the projection of the rod returns. Ex: If you are
ordering a 1" diameter rod with returns having a 3 1/2" projection, your specifications
for your two post brackets would be: Rod size to fit = 1", Projection = 3 1/2". For more info,
read .
Hanging
Hanging brackets are typically used as a support when the bracket must hang down from above,
such as as the center bracket for an inside-mount rod or situations where the rod is hung entirely
from the ceiling. For ceiling mounts the projection is the distance between the ceiling and the top of the rod.
Which cup style should I use?
The following are suggestions on cup style:
- A round cup is used for round rods. A square cup is used for square and hammered rods.
- Standard style is used in most cases. Tube style is used on hanging brackets to prevent the rod
from falling out. Saddle style may be used for getting extra height above the bracket. (Such as when
crown molding prevents putting the bracket higher on the wall.)
- For escutcheons, a set screw may be added if needed. If only one end of the rod will
use an escutcheon (with a hanging bracket or standard bracket at the other end) then a set screw can be added
to prevent any side to side movement in the rod.
Shower curtain rods usually use set screws on each end for maximum stability.
How many brackets do I need?
The number of brackets needed is based on the diameter of the rod, the length of the rod, the weight of the fabric,
and sometimes the strength of the mounting surface:
Every rod needs a bracket at each end, and some may need additional bracket(s) in the middle. Since rods are spliced
every 105", you will always need a middle bracket on rods over 105". The length of a section of rod between two
brackets is called a "span". (Ex: A rod @ 140" with one middle bracket would have 2 spans of 70"). Since rods increase in rigidity as they
increase in diameter, we have these suggested guidelines:
1/2" rod : max suggested span is ~70"
3/4" rod : max suggested span is ~80"
1" rod : max suggested span is ~90"
1 1/4" and larger can span up to the full unspliced length (105") with no sag.
A very weak mounting
surface (such as drywall with no stud/framing) may warrant an additional bracket to help support the load. Keep in
mind that you'll ideally want to line your brackets up with the splice seams so that the seams are hidden and thus
the rod will look like one solid, continuous piece.
Corner and bay window curtain rods will need an additional bracket for each corner.
Please click here for more .
Specific Bracket Dimensions
NOTE: The following are non-critical dimensions, and may change from time to time as we
work to improve our products. If your design or installation has a specific requirement,
please contact us to confirm the details.
-Standard and center brackets are made from 3/16" x 3/4" flat bar.
-The height of the backplate on standard brackets (standard single, double) depends on the cup size:
1/2", 3/4" cup = 3" back height
1", 1 1/4" cup = 3 1/2" back height
1 1/2", 2" cup = 4" back height
-The backplate on center brackets is 3 1/2" wide, 3/4" tall.
-Post brackets are 3" - 4" tall (following rules above), and are as wide as the diameter of the rod.
-All holes are 1/4" in diameter.
-Escutcheons have a rectangular backplate which is ~3/8" wider than the rod size, and ~1" taller than the rod size.
(Ex: An escutcheon for a 2" rod would have a backplate ~2 3/8" wide and ~3" tall).
-Hanging brackets have a backplate typically measuring 1 7/8" in diameter. The cup portion is made of flat bar 1/2" wide.
-Passing brackets have a backplate 3" tall and 3/4" wide.
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Projection Measurements
Projection is always the distance between the mounting surface and the rod. For ceiling mounts, this is
the distance from the ceiling to the top of the rod. For wall mounts, this is the distance from the wall to the
back of the rod.
Escutcheon
Escutcheon brackets have no projection.
Projection for Post Bracket
For post brackets, the projection should be set to the same length as on the rod with
returns.
What length projection should I specify?
Projection is the distance between the mounting surface and start of the rod.
The most common projection for a single bracket is around 3". For double
brackets, the first cup usually has a projection between 2" and 3", with the second cup being
between 4" and 6". For smaller rods in tight spots such as bathrooms, etc., a smaller
projection may be desired. A larger projection may be needed for clearance around large
window frames or other objects. Keep in mind these are just the typical setups - you
should examine your specific situation to determine the best fit.
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FINIALS
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GO TO FINIALS PAGE
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Measuring Tips for Finials
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How do I measure for finials?
There are only two general rules for choosing finials for your rod:
1) Make sure that the finial will not be too long for your installation. Be sure you have room for the length of each finial AND the length of the rod. (Make sure there are no walls, etc. in the way.)
2) Make sure the size of your finial is not overly large for the rod. The part of the finial that meets (touches) the
rod is called the "base", and the size of this part is given for each finial as its "width at base". The finial base
should always be large enough to fully cover the end of the rod, but not so large as to look out of place. Typically,
you'll want to choose a finial with a base which is just a bit larger than the rod size it will be used with.
PLEASE NOTE:
The length you specify for your rod is the length of the rod only (NOT including the finials).
Ex: If you order a rod at 96", and finials which are 3" each, your total length with finials will
be 96 + 3 + 3 = 102". This is true regardless of type of rod or finial.
How do the finials attach to the rod?
Finials are always attachable / detachable from the rod. Finials attach either by sliding inside the end of the rod, or by threading into the end of the rod,
or by sliding over the end of the rod - whichever method works best for your finial and rod selection.
If you are ordering both rod and finials from Highland Forge then we've got you covered. If you are ordering
only finials and are planning to use with an existing rod (or vice versa), you may want to contact us to make sure our hardware
will match up with your existing hardware.
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TIEBACKS
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GO TO TIEBACKS PAGE
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How can I customize my tiebacks?
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After selecting the ornamental part of your tieback from the main Tiebacks page,
you'll be able to select its body type.
The following are examples of completed tiebacks:
Flat Hook Tieback
These tiebacks are 4" deep x 7" wide (including the ornamental piece). Flat hook tieback bodies work well with any
of the available ornamental pieces.
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Round Hook Tieback
These tiebacks are 4" deep x 7" wide (including the ornamental piece) x 3 1/2" tall (at the back plate).
Round hook tieback bodies work well with any of the available ornamental pieces.
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Post Tieback
These tiebacks are 5" deep, including the ornamental piece.
Post tieback bodies work best with medallion style or very short, finial style ornamental pieces. The backplate
is round for steel post tiebacks and rectangular for stainless post tiebacks.
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Measuring Tips for Tiebacks
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Which Body Style?
When choosing between tieback / holdback bodies, there are a few considerations:
- Hook tiebacks typically can accomdate more fabric than post tiebacks. While
a post tieback with a large medallion can hold a substantial amount of drapery,
hook tiebacks will usually be the better choice if your intallation calls for holding
back a lot of fabric.
- The difference in mounting styles may be something to consider depending on your
windows / walls. Flat hook and round hook tiebacks take up more space
horizontally than the post tieback. Flat hook tiebacks use horizontal aligned
anchoring, while round hook tiebacks use vertically aligned anchoring. Post
tiebacks can be mounted in either direction.
- Stainless steel tieback bodies are typically only used with brass and stainless
steel ornamental pieces.
- Finally, please note that longer finials (over 2") typically do not work well
as the ornamental piece on post tiebacks, whereas shorter finials and all medallions
work great on post tiebacks.
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WANDS
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GO TO WANDS PAGE
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Measuring Tips for Wands
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Hook Type
The type of hook required is mostly personal preference, based upon how you prefer to use the wand:
-The "through-ring"
hook is most common, as this hook is placed through the body of the leading ring. It pulls the bottom of the ring, and
is typically left in place permanently.
-The "over-rod" hook is less common, and can be used just like the "through-ring", or by pushing the top of the leading
ring (or fabric). This hook is normally left hanging over the rod itself or through a ring. Because it is more easily
attached/detached, it is more desirable when being used with more than one drapery panel or location.
What size diameter wand should I use?
Typically, 1/4" diameter is used only when the length of the wand is 24" or less. 3/8"
diameter is suggested for lengths over 24" to prevent any bending of the wand.
Length
The measurement that you provide for the length of the wand will be the total, overall length from
end to end.
Rod Size To Fit (For "Over-Rod" Hooks)
This should be set to the actual size of the rod the wand will be used with, as these wands
are typically left hanging over the rod when not in use. (Ex: if using
the wand with 1 1/4" rod, set Rod Size To Fit = 1 1/4".)
PLEASE NOTE: Ring and Rod Size
The gap between the ring and rod needs to be large enough to accomodate the diameter of the wand. 1/4" and 3/8" wands
require that the ring be at least 1/2" larger than the rod. (Ex 1 1/2" ring with 1" rod.) The 1/2" wand requires
that the ring be at least 3/4" larger than the rod. (Ex. 2" ring with 1" rod, or 2 1/2" ring with 1 1/2" rod.)
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RINGS
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GO TO RINGS PAGE
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Measuring Tips for Rings
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All rings are listed by inner diameter.
Outer diameter is typically 3/8" larger. Ex: 2" ring has a 2"
inner diameter, 2 3/8" outer diameter.
What size ring do I need?
Rings should typically be at least 1/2" larger than the rod to be used with. Ex: If
you are purchasing a rod with diameter of 3/4", select rings with inner diameter
of 1 1/4". A 1" rod would use the 1 1/2" ring. Since there is no 1 3/4" ring, a 1 1/4" rod will normally use
the 2" rings. If you are using C-Rings with the Passing Bracket, the ring must be 1/2" - 3/4" larger than the rod.
How many rings do I need?
In most cases, there's a ring for every 4 - 8 inches of curtain rod. For example, for a
curtain rod 84" in length, you'd need 10 to 20 rings. In general, the number of rings needed
depends on the drapery and pleating style, etc.
How do I use rings with eyelets?
The most common way to use rings with eyelets is to sew the fabric into the eyelet. This is the
method typically preferred by designers and can be done at any drapery workroom. Another way to
use the rings is with drapery hooks. These are hooks which hook into the fabric and then are
looped through the eyelet.
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Copyright © 2005-2010 Highland Forge, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
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Let us help!
1.866.716.7555
sales@highlandforge.com
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