Highland Forge Custom Drapery Hardware

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Customizing and Measuring Tips
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Customizing and Measuring Tips

Rods | Brackets | Finials | Tiebacks | Wands | Rings

RODS

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How can I customize my curtain rods?

After selecting a curtain rod from the rods page, you'll be able to further define your specifications:
  • Rod Type


    All curtain rods can be made into one of the following rod types:

    straight window curtain rods
    straight window curtain rods

    Standard straight rod.
    How to Measure
        
    corner window curtain rods
    corner window curtain rods

    Rod with two straight sections, spans a corner. Custom fabricated to meet your exact angle needed. (You don't have to calculate the actual degrees, see measuring help.)
    How to Measure
        
    bay window curtain rods
    bay window curtain rods

    Rod for a bay window with three sides, spans two corners. Custom fabricated to meet the exact angles of your bay window. (You don't have to calculate the actual degrees, see measuring help.)
    How to Measure
        
    bow window curtain rods
    bow window curtain rods

    Curved rod, mounted horizontally for rounded bays, etc.. *Must be part of circle (perfectly round). See "How To Measure" for details. Please contact us for current availability and pricing.
    How to Measure
    *We are not making curved rods at this time.
        
    arch window curtain rods
    arch window curtain rods

    Curved rod, vertically mounted for arch windows. *Must be part of circle (perfectly round). See "How To Measure" for details. Please contact us for current availability.
    How to Measure
    *We are not making curved rods at this time.
        


  • Size


    You'll be able to specify all dimensions of your walls down to 1/8th of an inch.


  • Projection


    You'll be able to specify the exact projection for the curtain rod.


  • Rod End Type


    You'll be able to specify the rod end type as either straight (for use with finials, sockets, etc.) or having returns.


About Returns

While curtain rods typically have finials at each end, they can be fashioned to "return" to the wall. This may be desirable if there is not enough room for finials, or if the specific mounting requires it. In some cases returns may appeal for solely aesthetic reasons.

If you choose returns for your curtain rod, you will need to use two post brackets for the ends, in place of the standard brackets typically used. Be sure to specify the Rod Size To Fit for the post brackets as the actual size of your curtain rod. (Ex: 3/4" rod would use post brackets made to fit 3/4" rod size.) For all brackets to be used with a curtain rod with returns, be sure to specify the same projection as was assigned to the rod.

Projection is the distance between the wall and the rod.

Use Of Post Bracket With Return



use of post bracket with a curtain rod with returns

Details for a Straight Rod with Returns:


details for a straight rod with returns


Returns for specific rod types:

  • Straight Rod

    Returns on straight rods are fabricated at 90° from the rod.
    As seen from above:



  • Corner Rod

    Returns on corner rods are fabricated at 90° from each end of the rod.
    As seen from above:



  • Bay Rod

    Returns on bay rods are fabricated at 90° from each end of the rod.
    As seen from above:



  • Bow Rod

    Returns on bow rods are fabricated at 90° from each end of the rod.
    As seen from above:

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BRACKETS

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How can I customize my curtain brackets?

After selecting a bracket from the brackets page, you'll be able to further define your specifications:
  • Cup Style


    When applicable, you'll be able to specify one of the following cup styles:

    round | standard round | tube round | saddle
    square | standard square | tube square | saddle


  • Cup Size


    When applicable, you'll be able to specify the exact size for each cup in the bracket.


  • Projection


    When applicable, you'll be able to specify the exact projection for each cup in the bracket, or for the post in the post bracket.


 

Measuring Tips for Brackets

  • Center Single, Standard Single

    These are the brackets typically used for a one rod setup. When ordering, select the "rod size to fit" as the diameter of the rod these brackets will support. Select the projection as the desired distance between the wall and the rod. When using these brackets as center supports for rods having returns, be sure to specify the same projection as you specified when ordering your rod and post brackets.

    Standard brackets typically provide more support, but center brackets can be used for mounting positions with little vertical space, such as above a window frame.



  • Center Double, Standard Double

    These brackets follow all the same rules as their single counterparts, with the addition of another cup. Typically, the inner rod is a smaller diameter than the outer rod. The projection of the two are usually a few inches apart. Ex: Cup 1: Rod size = 3/4", Projection = 2 1/2", Cup 2: Rod size = 1 1/4", Projection = 4 1/2". Be sure to leave room between the two rods for all rings and fabrics.



  • Socket

    Socket brackets are used for rods that will be mounted between two surfaces facing one another, such as inside the frame of a recessed window or in the case of a shower curtain rod. This type of installation is called a Wall to Wall Mount, or Inside Mount.

    Please Note:

    The socket backplates are 3/8" thick. If using an socket on both ends of a straight rod, be sure to subtract 7/8" from the overall length of the rod to allow room for the brackets themselves and ease of installation.

    If you are using a socket on only one end of the rod, then simply subtract 3/8" from the length of the rod. A general rule is to err on making your rod a bit too short versus too long, so as to not inhibit installation. Also see measuring help for your rod type (straight, corner, bay) if using socket brackets.



  • Post

    Post brackets are used for curtain rods with returns on the ends. The projection of the post bracket should be the same as the projection of the rod returns. Ex: If you are ordering a 1" diameter rod with returns having a 3 1/2" projection, your specifications for your two post brackets would be: Rod size to fit = 1", Projection = 3 1/2". For more info, read about returns.



  • Which cup style should I use?


    The following are suggestions on cup style:

    • A round cup is used for round rods. A square cup is used for square and hammered rods.


    • Standard style is used in most cases. Saddle style may be used for getting extra height above the bracket. (Such as when crown molding prevents you from simply mounting the bracket higher on the wall.)


  • How many brackets do I need?

    The number of brackets needed is based on the diameter of the rod, the length of the rod, the weight of the fabric, and sometimes the strength of the mounting surface:

    Every rod needs a bracket at each end, and some may need additional bracket(s) in the middle. Since rods are spliced every 105", you will always need a middle bracket on rods over 105". The length of a section of rod between two brackets is called a "span". (Ex: A rod @ 140" with one middle bracket would have 2 spans of 70"). Since rods increase in rigidity as they increase in diameter, we have these suggested guidelines:

    1/2" rod : max suggested span is ~70"
    3/4" rod : max suggested span is ~80"
    1" rod : max suggested span is ~90"
    1 1/4" and larger can span up to the full unspliced length (105") with no sag.

    A very weak mounting surface (such as drywall with no stud/framing) may warrant an additional bracket to help support the load. Keep in mind that you'll ideally want to line your brackets up with the splice seams so that the seams are hidden and thus the rod will look like one solid, continuous piece.

    Corner and bay window curtain rods will need an additional bracket for each corner.

    Please click here for more info on splicing.



  • Specific Bracket Dimensions

    NOTE: The following are non-critical dimensions, and may change from time to time as we work to improve our products. If your design or installation has a specific requirement, please contact us to confirm the details.

    -Standard, Center, and Simple Ceiling brackets are made from 3/16" x 3/4" flat bar.

    -The height of the backplate on Standard brackets (Standard Single, Standard Double) depends on the cup size:
    1/2", 3/4" cup = 3" back height
    1", 1 1/4" cup = 3 1/2" back height
    1 1/2", 2" cup = 4" back height

    -The backplate on Center brackets is 3" wide x 1 1/2" tall.

    -The backplate on Slim Center brackets is 3 1/2" wide x 3/4" tall.

    -Post brackets are 3" - 4" tall (following rules above), and are as wide as the diameter of the rod.

    -All mounting holes are 1/4" in diameter.

    -Sockets are always a 1/4" larger in diameter than the rod size.

    -Loop brackets have a backplate measuring 1" wide, and 2 1/2" - 3 1/2" tall depending on rod size. The cup and arm portion are 1/2" wide.

    -M1 brackets have a backplate measuring 1" wide, and 2 1/2" - 3 1/2" tall depending on rod size. The arm is 3/16" thick.

    -Passing brackets have a backplate 3" tall and 3/4" wide.

Projection Measurements

  • Projection is the distance between the mounting surface and the rod. For ceiling mounts, this is the distance from the ceiling to the top of the rod. For wall mounts, this is the distance from the wall to the back of the rod.





  • Projection for Post Bracket


    For post brackets, the projection should be set to the same length as on the rod with returns.


  • What length projection should I specify?

    Projection is the distance between the mounting surface and start of the rod. The most common projection for a single bracket is around 3". For double brackets, the first cup usually has a projection between 2" and 3", with the second cup being between 4" and 6". The most common setup on a double rod is a projection of 2 1/2" to the back rod, and 4 3/4" to the front rod. With a 3/4" back rod, this gives 1 1/2" in between rods. For smaller rods in tight spots such as bathrooms, a smaller projection may be desired. A larger projection may be needed for clearance around large window frames or other objects. Keep in mind these are just the typical setups - you should examine your specific situation to determine the best fit.

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FINIALS

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Measuring Tips for Finials

  • How do I measure for finials?

    There are only two general rules for choosing finials for your rod:

    1) Make sure that the finial will not be too long for your installation. Be sure you have room for the length of each finial AND the length of the rod. (Make sure there are no walls, etc. in the way.)

    2) Make sure the size of your finial is not overly large for the rod. The part of the finial that meets (touches) the rod is called the "base", and the size of this part is given for each finial as its "width at base". The finial base should always be large enough to fully cover the end of the rod, but not so large as to look out of place. Typically, you'll want to choose a finial with a base which is just a bit larger than the rod size it will be used with.

    PLEASE NOTE:

    The length you specify for your rod is the length of the rod only (NOT including the finials). Ex: If you order a rod at 96", and finials which are 3" each, your total length with finials will be 96 + 3 + 3 = 102". This is true regardless of type of rod or finial.



  • How do the finials attach to the rod?

    Finials are always attachable / detachable from the rod. Finials attach either by sliding inside the end of the rod, or by threading into the end of the rod, or by sliding over the end of the rod - whichever method works best for your finial and rod selection. If you are ordering both rod and finials from Highland Forge then we've got you covered. If you are ordering only finials and are planning to use with an existing rod (or vice versa), you may want to contact us to make sure our hardware will match up with your existing hardware.

 
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TIEBACKS

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How can I customize my tiebacks?

After selecting the ornamental part of your tieback from the main Tiebacks page, you'll be able to select its body type.

The following are examples of completed tiebacks:

Flat Hook Tieback

These tiebacks are 4" deep x 7" wide (including the ornamental piece). Flat hook tieback bodies work well with any of the available ornamental pieces.

flat hook tieback

Round Hook Tieback

These tiebacks are 4" deep x 7" wide (including the ornamental piece) x 3 1/2" tall (at the back plate). Round hook tieback bodies work well with any of the available ornamental pieces.

round hook tieback

Post Tieback

These tiebacks are 5" deep, including the ornamental piece. Post tieback bodies work best with medallion style or very short, finial style ornamental pieces. The backplate is round for steel post tiebacks and rectangular for stainless post tiebacks.

post tieback
 

Measuring Tips for Tiebacks

Which Body Style?


When choosing between tieback / holdback bodies, there are a few considerations:

  • Hook tiebacks typically can accomdate more fabric than post tiebacks. While a post tieback with a large medallion can hold a substantial amount of drapery, hook tiebacks will usually be the better choice if your intallation calls for holding back a lot of fabric.


  • The difference in mounting styles may be something to consider depending on your windows / walls. Flat hook and round hook tiebacks take up more space horizontally than the post tieback. Flat hook tiebacks use horizontal aligned anchoring, while round hook tiebacks use vertically aligned anchoring. Post tiebacks can be mounted in either direction.


  • Stainless steel tieback bodies are typically only used with brass and stainless steel ornamental pieces.


  • Finally, please note that longer finials (over 2") typically do not work well as the ornamental piece on post tiebacks, whereas shorter finials and all medallions work great on post tiebacks.
 
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WANDS

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Measuring Tips for Wands

  • Hook Type

    The type of hook required is mostly personal preference, based upon how you prefer to use the wand:

    -The "through-ring" hook is most common, as this hook is placed through the body of the leading ring. It pulls the bottom of the ring, and is typically left in place permanently.

    -The "over-rod" hook is less common, and can be used just like the "through-ring", or by pushing the top of the leading ring (or fabric). This hook is normally left hanging over the rod itself or through a ring. Because it is more easily attached/detached, it is more desirable when being used with more than one drapery panel or location.



  • What size diameter wand should I use?

    Typically, 1/4" diameter is used only when the length of the wand is 24" or less. 3/8" diameter is suggested for lengths over 24" to prevent any bending of the wand.



  • Length

    The measurement that you provide for the length of the wand will be the total, overall length from end to end.



  • Rod Size To Fit (For "Over-Rod" Hooks)

    This should be set to the actual size of the rod the wand will be used with, as these wands are typically left hanging over the rod when not in use. (Ex: if using the wand with 1 1/4" rod, set Rod Size To Fit = 1 1/4".)



  • PLEASE NOTE: Ring and Rod Size

    The gap between the ring and rod needs to be large enough to accomodate the diameter of the wand. 1/4" and 3/8" wands require that the ring be at least 1/2" larger than the rod. (Ex 1 1/2" ring with 1" rod.) The 1/2" wand requires that the ring be at least 3/4" larger than the rod. (Ex. 2" ring with 1" rod, or 2 1/2" ring with 1 1/2" rod.)

 
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RINGS

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Measuring Tips for Rings

  • All rings are listed by inner diameter / dimension.

    With all of our rings, the outer diameter is approximately 3/8" larger than the inner diameter. For example: A 2" ring has a 2" inner diameter and a 2 3/8" outer diameter. All eyelets are approximately 1/2" diameter.



  • What size ring do I need?

    Rings should typically be around 1/2" larger than the rod they will be used with. For example, a 3/4" rod would use 1 1/4" rings and a 1" rod would use 1 1/2" rings. Since there is no 1 3/4" ring, a 1 1/4" rod will normally use the 2" rings. For a tighter look, a ring that is only 1/4" larger than the rod will usually work on a straight rod, with the exception of the scenarios described below. Please check with us if you are unsure.

    If using C-Rings: All C-rings are made to fit an exact rod size; please be sure to select the appropriate C-rings for your rod size.

    If using Rods with Returns: For 1 1/2" and 2" rods with mitered returns, you must use an over-sized ring. A 1 1/2" rod with mitered returns will require a 2 1/2" ring, and a 2" rod with mitered returns will require a 3" ring. An alternative would be to specify Half-Radius or Full-Radius returns instead of the mitered returns, as these return types allow a regular size ring.

    If using Wands: If you plan to hook a wand through your rings, then be sure that the rings are large enough. At a minimum there must be room for the thickness of the wand itself (1/4", 3/8", or 1/2") plus an additional 1/8". For example, if you are using a 3/8" wand with a 1" rod, then you must use at least the 1 1/2" ring.

    If using an Existing Rod: If you are purchasing rings to use with an existing rod, then it is important to know the exact outside diameter of your rod. If it is a telescoping / adjustable rod, then be sure to measure the large end. The easiest way to measure the diameter is to remove the finial from one end and measure straight across the end of the rod from one side to the other. See our Glossary section for a diagram of Diameter. (Do not measure around the outside of the rod, as this is the Circumference not the Diameter.)



  • How many rings do I need?

    The number of rings needed depends on the drapery. 50" wide panels will commonly use around 8 rings (7" ring spacing), but this can vary so always check your specific drapes to determine how many rings are needed. In general, you'll use a ring for every 4 - 6 inches of curtain rod.



  • How do I use eyelet rings?

    The traditional method for attaching a ring with eyelet is to sew the fabric into the eyelet. This is the method typically preferred by designers and can be done at any drapery workroom. Another way to attach eyelet rings is with the use drapery pins or hooks. With these hooks, one end attaches to the fabric and the other end is hooked through the eyelet. Drapery pins come in various shapes and sizes and are available at most drapery / fabric stores as well as online.



 


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